Hiking Mt. Taranaki with a Toddler
Sharing our tales of summiting a mountain with a 1.5 year old strapped to our back.
Never did I imagine myself changing a dirty diaper on the summit hike of Mount Taranaki, but here I was on the first day of the new decade wiping my daughter’s ass on the rocky ledge of North Island's second tallest mountain.
Sitting at 2,518 m high into the sky is Mr. Mighty Mount Taranaki, he is the region's towering god known for creating his own weather patterns and infamous for rapid condition changes. For years, Ryan and I have traveled to this area; hiking around the mountain, visiting the insta-famous Pouakai Tarns and chasing epic scale scenes on nearby roads. On January 1 of the brand new decade, a window of perfect weather opened up and it was finally time for hiking Mount Taranaki Summit.
For our first attempt, we never anticipated climbing the demanding hike with our daughter strapped to us, but the extra challenge enticed us and we decided to give it a go.
Nine and a half hours. Nine hours and a half hours of walking up crazy steep terrain to the tippy top of Mt. Taranaki and back down the same grueling path.
To give a little backstory, Ryan and I fell in love with Mount Taranaki the first time we ever laid eyes on him. It wasn’t until my fourth trip to the region that the mighty perfectly cone-shaped mountain decided to show his beauty. From that trip, we continue to visit Egmont National Park when the opportunity arises. Summiting the stand-alone stratsvolcano is intimidating on its own and something we planned to do for years, but the right conditions were never there.
It wasn’t until this past holiday season, on the morning of a new year (2020), that we started our attempt with a slight disadvantage.
Ryan and I are both strong hikers, his endurance always surprises me, he’s in his element when we’re hiking. I’m usually a tad slower, but give me a breather every so often and I can preserve for hours. When Lia joined us, we immediately began hiking with her. She grew up staring at the trees from her safety nook cuddled upon us. She’s spent countless hours in a carrier and hardly complains. Now, these funny, little humans grow fast and soon enough, they’re the weight of your checked luggage and demanding snacks constantly. Luckily, Lia’s happy staring off into nature as we hike and as long as we have a solid apple supply, she’s content.
Now before we decided to attempt to summit Mount Taranaki with a toddler, we covered all our bases.
Chose the right day with perfect conditions.
Talked to DOC about summiting and the best route to take.
Packed plenty of food, water and layers.
Agreed to turn back if either of us felt unsafe.
So here’s our story, in somewhat of a timeline, of our day. Enjoy.
December 31st, 2020
Stratford Holiday Park
New Year’s looks a little different with a child. This year we chose to go on a family hiking and camping trip in our two favorite National Parks: Tongariro and Egmont. Our dream is to summit Mount Taranaki on this trip and tomorrow morning we will try. Upon checking weather conditions, we quickly realized that New Year’s Day gave us the perfect window. We chose to spend our NYE at a campsite, swimming in the holiday park pool, cooking dinner in the community kitchen and climbing into bed at sundown. It’s the first year, I haven’t rang in the new year at midnight and I honestly didn’t care. Local fireworks and other celebrating campers woke us up a few times, and around 4am our alarms went off.
We slowly peeled ourselves out of bed, trying to keep Lia asleep for as long as possible. She woke up minutes later. We converted our van back driving mode and as quietly as possible drove out of the camp around 4:30am.
5:00am - We parked at Stratford Plateau parking lot, prepped our bags, devoured food and let Lia run around.
5:30am - Started the hike.
Our goal was to be hiking up while the sun rose and we experienced exactly that. We walked while listening to the beautiful birdsongs fill the skies and watched the new decade receive its first bit of sunlight. Deep reds and pinks danced across the skies as low clouds hung over the farms and towns below. Mount Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe stood tall from afar and we smiled, excited for the day ahead.
For the first hour and a bit, we followed the Around the Mountain Circuit. The route is clear with signage until you reach the ski field. From there, we crossed under the chair lifts to find the trail to lead us to our first stop.
Lia took her first nap as we trudged along.
Around the Mountain Circuit - Egmont National Park
7am - Tahurangi Lodge
Around 7ish, we reached Tahurangi Lodge where we joined the Summit Trail. This privately-owned hut is inaccessible for public use, however, it offers a few benches and a (drop) toilet about 20m down the trail.
*Also, a good time to tell you that there is no water on the entire summit trail. You must carry enough water for the entire roundtrip hike.
We arrived to find other hikers basking in the morning sun while drinking tea. We wished our fellow hikers a Happy New Year and took a short break.
Lia ran around snacking on an apple while we took in the views, used the lavatory and mentally prepared for the challenge that lie ahead.
7:15am - We began the next section of the hike. The trail climbs steeply through a rocky path straight above the lodge.
7:35am - According to my iPhone footage, we reached the first big obstacle of the summit; the staircase.
Or the stairway to the summit or hell in the words of Ryan.
Egmont National Park lighting up from morning sun.
Heading towards the stairway to the summit or to hell, in the words of Ryan
7:45am - We arrived at the top of the stairs.
Although it was still early in the morning, the sun was stronger than we anticipated. Our perfect day was also cloudless, giving us no relief on the entire trip up and back.
Thanks to the video made by the DOC (see here), we knew the long, steep scree section was next.
Now, I usually hate hiking on any form of loose rock and I did not look forward to this part, however, my hiking poles changed that. I typically don’t use poles for day hikes, but thankfully, Ryan and I made the decision to bring them on this trip.
Using my poles, I climbed up confidently and quicker than I imagined. This was Ryan’s least favourite part. He, of course carrying so much extra weight struggled here.
At some point, we noticed a familiar smell coming from Lia’s end. We prepared for a few mid-hike diaper changes, but we did not expect the track to be so exposed with few places to rest at. Thankfully farther up the trail, we found a few people breaking at a somewhat rocky, flatish surface and that’s how I changed my daughter’s nappy while other hikers passed up and down the trail. At least toddlers have no shame. ha!
We carried on to our next leg of the hike: the lizard.
A view of the Pouakai Tarns where the famous Instagram reflection exists. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, click here.
9am (ish) - The Lizard
We put our hiking poles away, took a breather and prepared for the next leg.
At some point, Lia napped again and we worked our way slowly up the towering rocks. This part of the trail resembles bouldering. The orange markers wind up and you create your own path, using your hands and legs to climb over rock after rock.
It’s actually remarkable to see how high you’ve climbed in such a short time. I’m not one to be scared of hikes, but the steepness of this mountain summit is not for the faint-hearted.
We took our time on the lizard and looked forward to reaching the crater.
Now at this point, we had a reputation on the mountain. Hikers coming from both ways were often congratulating us on carrying our daughter up. We had many “good on ya’s” and a few “good effort,” which to me sounds more like an insult, but to kiwis it’s more of a good job.
On the way back down one man exclaimed, “so you’re the famous baby, we’ve heard about.” Word had traveled down the mountain about us. We laughed, exchanged good days and carried on.
Ryan finding compositions on the way up.
10am - We made it to the snow crater!
Woohoooo, reaching this point feels like you’ve made it. The lizard finishes carving around a big ledge, revealing the wide, open crater ahead. Stepping onto the snow felt incredible. The snow glistened in the sun rays and the rigged peaks of the mountain stood tall on either side of us. Now all we needed to do was climb one last second of volcanic scree and the top was ours.
Without any markers, I chose to follow another hiker’s tracks up to the final ascent, however, I made a wrong choice and ended up on a very steep section in icy snow. I slipped and the sharpness of the snow cut my skin (minor scratch) and we quickly found the orange poles and made our way up using our poles.
Unsure of what the actual summit looked like, we carried on as we saw other hikers hanging out at what we assumed was the top. While there is another crater up here with an incredible rock formation I recommend (safely) climbing on. See below for the photo opp. Keep heading up and you’ll find an expansive area with plenty of flat space to hang out, walk around and take in the 360 views.
An absolute dream.
Above the clouds on the summit of Mt. Taranaki
10:20am - ON THE SUMMIT
We took Lia out of the pack, found a spot for our bags and ran around checking out the viewpoints from every spot. Lia walked around, others sat around enjoying snacks and the break. The weather was warm! I brought a crazy amount of layers expecting the top to be frigid, but I guessed wrong. (Thank you weather gods!) While one family shared hot tea, we settled down for a little picnic of fruit and pb sandwiches. We took our time, snapped plenty of photos and when we felt ready decided to start our descent.
*Please DO NOT STAND ON THE TRUE SUMMIT.
This mountain is sacred to Maori legend and it is extremely disrespectful to stand on the true summit. I believe the summit sign has been removed in order to keep hikers off, but we did see people standing on its peak. I called out to the older gentleman standing on it to ask if it was the true summit and he just scuffed. Also, please remember to take everything with you, including apple cores, tp and wrappers.
Lia climbing around on the summit
Taking in the spectualar views from Mount Taranaki summit
11:30am - The Descent
Typically on one-way hikes, the descent is much easier than the climb up. Well thanks to the steepness of Taranaki and the crazy terrain, I’d say it’s almost just as hard going down.
We crossed the snow crater again, heading back towards the lizard when a solo hiker saw us and said, “holy shit, you have a baby.” It was a good laugh as we began our treacherous hike down the mountain.
The lizard took about the same time to climb down as it did to climb up. We took it cautiously for Lia’s sake. At this point, the sun was the strongest and beat down on us hard. We carried both a 1.5L and 2L water reservoir each, however, we didn’t have much on the way back.
I wore both a hat and sunglasses, but I still ended up with a bad headache. I’m prone to headaches and migraines and the sweltering sun did not help.
We carried on trying to make good time knowing we’d be both hungry and thirsty at the bottom.
Ryan flew down the scree using his poles as anchors and I followed after. We each had a few slips, completely natural on this terrain, and landed on our behinds, but reached the stairs in excellent timing.
By the time we reached the lodge, Ryan’s shoulders were aching so bad, we decided to switch backpacks. Now like I said before, carrying yourself up the mountain is one feat, but carrying a 15kg+ kid is another. I trudged on with a pounding headache and painful soreness from the hike.
The last 90minutes were brutal and by the time we reached the car, I had a full-on migraine. Not the greatest way to finish such a mission, but I felt it necessary to share this.
Make sure you are plenty hydrated before starting the hike. Carry more water than necessary and consider bringing some form of electrolytes to replenish the salt in your body.
3pm - THE END!
After 9.5 grueling, yet rewarding hours, we arrived at our van in the Stratford Plateau carpark. Proud and exhausted, we headed back to our campsite and collapsed while our energetic toddler ran around our tired bodies.
If you are still reading this, massive thank you! I love sharing our adventures and I hope you enjoyed joining in.
For those looking for tips for the hike, please see below. I’ve also included tips for brave parents who want to carry their bub up the mountain.
Cheers and happy hiking,
Viktoria
Final takeaway tips for those attempting to summit
Choose a clear day.
Carry enough water for yourself and then some (hydrate well before and after).
Bring layers, sunglasses, hat and gloves depending on the temperature.
Ring DOC to tell them about your plans to ensure it’s safe to hike.
Use the bathroom at Tahurangi Lodge, the only one on the trail.
If you have hiking poles, bring them. You’ll thank me on the scree.
Wear proper hiking boots. I saw a guy in Vans, his shoes were filled with rocks. Rocks will sneak into your shoes during the scree, wear gators to prevent it.
Listen to the turn back signs. At many points of the trail, you are asked to consider the conditions and your fit level before continuing.
And lastly, if you feel unsafe at all, TURN BACK. Don’t risk your own safety and the safety of others.
Final tips for parents who want to bring their little ones
A supportive carrier is KEY.
For little ones, 8-9 months or younger, I’d recommend a Lillebaby (we used the All Seasons from age 6weeks to 1.5 year old) or I hear wonderful things about the Ergobaby 360 carrier.
For 9 months and older, I’d highly recommend the Osprey Poco Plus or something similar.
We spent months comparing carriers and finally purchased a barely used poco plus from UK ebay (they are currently not available in NZ). Best purchase we made for our hiking family. This backpack has extra storage, pockets everywhere, a built-in sunshade, stir-ups and is super comfortable for Lia. She asks to go in it often.
Pack smart.
Bring your child’s favourite snacks and bring extra. An apple will distract Lia for up to an hour and she also loves the organic puffs. We also brought pb sammies, mandarins, trail mix, blueberries and bananas for the trip.
Carry a full water bottle for them. Lia finished hers on the trail and we topped her up from our water reservoirs. You may need to carry milk or formula depending on your child’s diet. Always bring more than needed.
Diapers, plus wipes are essential as well as airtight bag to contain the probable poop smell.
Sunscreen, sunhat, beanie, gloves, backup clothing and layers were also packed for Lia.
At the start of the track before dusk, she wore her Kathmandu jumpsuit to keep her warm. After the first break we removed it, thanks to the warm weather. She had on merino layers to keep her cool and dry.
Take breaks.
Although there aren’t many places to let your little one roam, let them stretch their legs a few times throughout the day. I’d recommend at the lodge and at the summit if conditions are safe.
These will also be breaks for your back and shoulders.
Strong fitness level is required.
The summit trail is a feat on its own. Now add a baby strapped to you and the challenge gets twice as hard. Ryan will admit its the hardest hike he’s completed. His shoulders were aching throughout the day.
Hike with a friend or partner.
Share the weight. While Ryan carried Lia, I carried the rest of the supplies, making it a little easier for him.
If you don’t feel safe, don’t carry on.
As I said in the beginning, there is no reason to risk anyone’s lives for the sake of a hike.
Only summit in good conditions.
Check weather updates often, call the DOC in Egmont National Park before hiking and always tell someone you’re hiking.
